"Set apart from the mainland by the brine of the Pacific and a green labyrinth of islets, Vancouver Island is an epicurean paradise. With nearly 3,500 kilometers of coastline encompassing about 32,000 kilometers of varied microclimates, it is home to some of British Columbia’s most interesting and delicious plates.

From the fresh fish tacos of the SoBo catering truck in Tofino to the eco-elegance of Sooke Harbour House, the seasonal feasts of Dock 503 in Sidney and the microbrews of Spinnakers in Victoria, the island’s palate is primed by two key elements: passion and fortuitous geography.

In an overview of Vancouver Island foods, it would be remiss not to recommend a handful of jewels that Victoria keeps in its crown. Rebar elevates both regional cuisine and vegetarianism to mainstream excellence. Brasserie L’Ecole, Café Brio and Zambri’s are reason enough to commit to some serious table times in B.C.’s capital city. High tea at the Empress Hotel is a heralded event and an experience that would not be out of place a world, or century away.

While the capital city has plenty to offer the palate, those willing to explore beyond the city limits will discover the island’s culinary core. Tucked into valleys and bays are enough gems to keep most ardent culinary adventurer looking forward to the next turn in the road.

Case in point, a 45 minute journey up the western coast of the island takes you to Sooke and the incomparable haven of Sinclair and Frederique Philip.

While the concept of using local ingredients is beginning to take root in popular culture, the Philip’s celebrated Sooke Harbour House has been living off the surrounding lands for the past three decades. The property, originally owned by the first sheriff of Vancouver Island, was built in 1925. The couple bought it in 1979.

“We’ve been serving our guests and ourselves the 100-Mile Diet (using local ingredients) for a few decades now and I would not do it any other way.” Said Sinclair Philip, who is also president of Slow Food Canada, which promotes fresh, local foods.

His regular trips to market and visits to local suppliers with Sooke Harbour House chef Edward Tuson are a source of professional pride and personal joy.

One of the oldest B&Bs in the province, the property is now a hotel, restaurant, spa, and gallery.

Sooke Harbour House is deeply rooted in Vancouver Island, gathering seaweed from the rocks below and produce from surrounding farms.

What we are doing at Sooke is definitely delicious, but more importantly, it makes sense. All the world’s great food cultures have taken full advantage of their growing regions and seasons. Food is a reflection of place, and when at Sooke, you are defiantly tasting Vancouver Island.”

Sooke Harbour House is a perennial multi-category, gold-medal winner in the Vancouver Playhouse Wine Festival wine list competition. Philip has been known to buy almost the entire production of some Vancouver Island wineries to bolster his world-renowned-and world encompassing-cellar. Philip is as passionate about local wines as he is about using Vancouver Island ingredients..."

The Fine Taste of Vancouver Island

By Jason McRobbie

Edmonton Journal

Spring 2007